The drive to San Casciano was scenic and entertaining but just a little fraught. We were driving from Piacenza where we had tootled to from Linate Airport for the first night. With ownership of a SatNav we got there with no problem - straight to our hotel; fabulous, it won't matter that all I have is a Rough Guide map of the whole of Italy.
On leaving Piacenza we decided we would use the more local network of roads - just as fast as the autostradi but infinitely more interesting and significantly cheaper. The esteemed Hungry One was in charge of the SatNav and programming San Casciano in. However, under his expert tutelage, said SatNav promptly turned into a mini computer which knew nothing about roads, mountains or hotels. Disaster. Now I was driving blind. At Bologna, we switched onto the autostrada to negotiate the mountains and then took the turning to Pisa Nord - it's in Tuscany right? Wrong! Well, yes, it is in Tuscany but on the wrong side of another set of hills. We scooted off at Montecatini Terme, had some lunch and bought a map of Tuscany. "This is easy," said I, "We just go along here up there (wee white road on map) and, Bob's your uncle, we're there."
Not so, wee white road was well nigh impossible to find and we took a wrong turning while on it which meant we drove much further south than we needed to and had to double back once we were on the SR2. We did get there in the end but next time, there will be maps. I can do maps and they are much more dependable than SatNavs - and I don't have to constantly row with them!
Thankfully, we were more than impressed with San Casciano and our hotel, B&B Art. The old town is very typical of the area and it is jam packed with lovely eateries and shops selling fabulous ingredients. The views over the hills from the square are spectacular (see the banner photo) and there is a lovely friendly ambience. We had a great evening having a wander around snacking, tasting wine, Chianti of course, and drinking Italian beer, Birra Moretti.
it's only a skip and a jump from San Casciano to Castellina in Chianto so, as we had plenty time in the morning, we had a good nose around especially in the wee market set up in the square.
On leaving Piacenza we decided we would use the more local network of roads - just as fast as the autostradi but infinitely more interesting and significantly cheaper. The esteemed Hungry One was in charge of the SatNav and programming San Casciano in. However, under his expert tutelage, said SatNav promptly turned into a mini computer which knew nothing about roads, mountains or hotels. Disaster. Now I was driving blind. At Bologna, we switched onto the autostrada to negotiate the mountains and then took the turning to Pisa Nord - it's in Tuscany right? Wrong! Well, yes, it is in Tuscany but on the wrong side of another set of hills. We scooted off at Montecatini Terme, had some lunch and bought a map of Tuscany. "This is easy," said I, "We just go along here up there (wee white road on map) and, Bob's your uncle, we're there."
Not so, wee white road was well nigh impossible to find and we took a wrong turning while on it which meant we drove much further south than we needed to and had to double back once we were on the SR2. We did get there in the end but next time, there will be maps. I can do maps and they are much more dependable than SatNavs - and I don't have to constantly row with them!
Thankfully, we were more than impressed with San Casciano and our hotel, B&B Art. The old town is very typical of the area and it is jam packed with lovely eateries and shops selling fabulous ingredients. The views over the hills from the square are spectacular (see the banner photo) and there is a lovely friendly ambience. We had a great evening having a wander around snacking, tasting wine, Chianti of course, and drinking Italian beer, Birra Moretti.
it's only a skip and a jump from San Casciano to Castellina in Chianto so, as we had plenty time in the morning, we had a good nose around especially in the wee market set up in the square.
The best find was an artisan pasta shop selling fabulous fresh ravioli and tortellini as well as dried artisan pasta where the Hungry One chose mozzarella filled ravioli and there was really only one sauce to make for that: Tomato and Basil. I found fresh San Marzano tomatoes, esteemed by pizza sauce makers the world over although they usually come out of a can, red onions, garlic and I knew that Franco would have basil growing here. We also bought some local figs, fresh ricotta and honey for dessert, one of our favourites with or without parma ham.
That meant we only had to buy staple type things when we got to Castellina. Oh my, we haven't been here for four years but we got a fabulous welcome from all our friends in the town and especially from Franco and Grazia here at San Martino. The last time we were here, our friends in the town all worked in the bar we frequent, Il Cantuccio, but now two of them have their own businesses, one of which is a fantastic deli where I foresee me spending some time... Now, our friend has arrived (who has been with us here before) and we feel as if we've never been away. We feel so much at home here and love the people, the atmosphere and usually the weather.
It's been cloudy and rainy but still beautiful which makes up for it. That's one of the reasons I'm indoors doing this and not lying by the pool!
Our Mozzarella Ravioli was delicious and the following night we had the artisan spaghetti with a ham ragu. Yesterday, I found a beautiful corn fed chicken which I roasted last night with lemon garlic and thyme. We had Fagiolini alla Pugliese (Puglian Green Beans) with it - I make that quite regularly so you can imagine my surprise when I discovered I haven't posted it on the website; an oversight which will be corrected in the next few days. The beans are cooked with tomatoes and the ham ragu is, of course, tomato based too so I'm feeling just a wee but tomatoed out now. Tonight, for a change, we'll have Mushroom Risotto with a little salad.
The weather doesn't seem to be going to change much over the next two or three days so we'll take advantage of it to get out and about a bit and the plan is to go San Gimignano tomorrow. San Gimignano is utterly glorious and is the location of the film, Tea with Mussolini. It is known as the Manhattan of Tuscany due to the number of campanile the mediaeval barons competed to build in their quest for status. We love it. We're not going on market day though because then it really is a nightmare for parking, walking around and finding a free table at which to eat; maybe later on in the month...
That meant we only had to buy staple type things when we got to Castellina. Oh my, we haven't been here for four years but we got a fabulous welcome from all our friends in the town and especially from Franco and Grazia here at San Martino. The last time we were here, our friends in the town all worked in the bar we frequent, Il Cantuccio, but now two of them have their own businesses, one of which is a fantastic deli where I foresee me spending some time... Now, our friend has arrived (who has been with us here before) and we feel as if we've never been away. We feel so much at home here and love the people, the atmosphere and usually the weather.
It's been cloudy and rainy but still beautiful which makes up for it. That's one of the reasons I'm indoors doing this and not lying by the pool!
Our Mozzarella Ravioli was delicious and the following night we had the artisan spaghetti with a ham ragu. Yesterday, I found a beautiful corn fed chicken which I roasted last night with lemon garlic and thyme. We had Fagiolini alla Pugliese (Puglian Green Beans) with it - I make that quite regularly so you can imagine my surprise when I discovered I haven't posted it on the website; an oversight which will be corrected in the next few days. The beans are cooked with tomatoes and the ham ragu is, of course, tomato based too so I'm feeling just a wee but tomatoed out now. Tonight, for a change, we'll have Mushroom Risotto with a little salad.
The weather doesn't seem to be going to change much over the next two or three days so we'll take advantage of it to get out and about a bit and the plan is to go San Gimignano tomorrow. San Gimignano is utterly glorious and is the location of the film, Tea with Mussolini. It is known as the Manhattan of Tuscany due to the number of campanile the mediaeval barons competed to build in their quest for status. We love it. We're not going on market day though because then it really is a nightmare for parking, walking around and finding a free table at which to eat; maybe later on in the month...